Anti Aging Skin Care Information
An estimated 38 million Americans born between 1948 and 1962 or
"baby boomers" are approaching middle age, where younger
more supple looking skin is only a memory. Unfortunately, American
culture practically worships a youthful appearance. Stand in line
in any check out counter and you will be reminded of the American
quest for youthful skin as the beautiful models stare back at you.
Aging of the skin occurs in two ways intrinsic aging and extrinsic
aging. Intrinsic (coming from the inside) aging is a continual,
natural process that begins in the deep layers of your skin early
in life. The rate at which intrinsic aging proceeds is controlled
primarily by genetic factors. Genetically programmed chronologic
aging causes biochemical changes in collagen and elastin, the connective
tissues that give skin its firmness and elasticity. The genetic
program for each person is different, so the loss of skin firmness
and elasticity occurs at different rates and different times in
one individual as compared with another. Intrinsic aging is also
affected by changes in an individual's chemistry over time, as well
as changes in the skin's life cycle. The effects of intrinsic aging
alone are usually subtle including primarily skin laxity or looseness
and fine wrinkling.
Superimpose the subtle changes from intrinsic factors with the
more profound extrinsic factors primarily photo damage (skin damage
caused primarily by chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR)
and the skin begins to show its age. Cigarette smoking also contributes
to aging effects by the biochemical changes it brings about in skin
tissues. Chemicals inhaled from cigarette smoke constrict tiny blood
vessels in the skin, reducing the oxygen and nutrient supply to
delicate facial tissues. Blood-vessel constriction lasts at least
an hour after a cigarette has been snuffed out. Over many years
of smoking, the oxygen and nutrient deficiencies cause skin to wrinkle
prematurely and lose elasticity (the ability to "bounce back"
after being stretched). It is not unusual for the skin of longtime
smokers to exhibit a grayish pallor.
Extrinsic or photo damage is a cumulative process that takes place
gradually over decades exhibiting very little early clinical evidence.
Photo damage begins with a child's first exposure to sunlight and
accumulates throughout life with each additional exposure. There
is often a 20-30 year delay between sun exposure and the negative
effects appear later in life. This attributes to our failure to
avoid the harmful photo damage, although the damage is largely preventable.
Some eighty-five percent of what individuals presume as aging is
actually secondary to exposure to the sun.
Most people have little understanding of how important prevention
can be in delaying the signs of aging," explains Patricia Farris,
M.D., a dermatologist and Assistant Clinical Professor, Tulane University
School of Medicine, Department of Dermatology. "They persist
in sunbathing with little or no protection and begin a protective
regimen only after photodamage has become apparent. When it comes
to treatment, they are confused by cosmetic counter promises of
younger, healthier-looking skin."
Visible Signs of Photo damage
Erythema (inflammation), sunburn and tanning are acute reactions
that occur within hours and days of exposure. Chronic photoaging
occurs over many years of UVR exposure and is characterized by mottled
hyperpigmentation (i.e. uneven discoloration, brown spots), skin
roughness fine and coarse wrinkling, sallowness, looseness of the
skin, freckles and telangiectasia (a visible network of enlarged
and broken superficial blood vessels). The severity of these signs
tends to increase with the cumulative amount of sun exposure.
The effects of ectrinsic factors are evident in the following pictures
of two women both 72 years of age. The women on the left was subject
to photodamage throughout the course of her life while the woman
on the right skin was protected:
Skin damage secondary to photo damage can be reduced by adopting
a comprehensive program of skin care including the following:
In addition to the primarily common sense methods of avoiding excess
UV light mentioned above there are several promising products that
can help reverse some of the signs of aging skin.
Sunscreens
The importance of the chronic use of sunscreen cannot be over
emphasized. Sunscreens can be divided into two categories the physical
and chemical sunscreens. The physical sunscreens have the active
ingredients which include Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, which
are insoluble, inorganic compounds. These work by both absorbing
and scattering UV radiation. Chemical sunscreens contain the active
ingredients Octyl Salicylate and Octyl Methoxycinnamate the exert
their mechanism of action by primarily only absorbing UVB and thus
converting it into heat. Some broad-spectrum products may incorporate
a mix of both physical and chemical sunscreens.
While most sunscreens are capable of blocking UVB, not all are
capable protect against UVA exposure. Photoaging is know to occur
secondary to chronic exposure of UVA. Some 90% of the visible changes
we associate with aging are actually the result of sun exposure.
Protect yourself only use sunscreens that are capable of blocking
both UVA and UVB, with SPF value of 15 and above.
Renova (Tretinoin)
As a first line of defense the topical medicaments are best suited..
The most popular topical regimen used by Dermotologist is the FDA
approved Tretinoin 0.05% cream, marketed as Renova®.
The active ingredient in Renova is Tretinoin reformulated in a
moisturizing cream. Tretinoin is potent chemical derived from Vitamin
A, it smoothes fine lines by acting on the cells of the dermas,
the lower layer of the skin. When damaged by the sun's ultraviolet
rays, the dermis tends to shrink which results in the outer layer
to wrinkle
Glycolic Acid.
Glycolic acid is another rejuvenating agent frequently used by
Dermatologists and Cosmetic Surgeons. Currently, Glycolic acids
can be used for problems such as acne, photo aging and superficial
scar correction. Glycolic acid can be found in a variety of strengths.
In low concentration (5-20%), glycolics can be used safely by the
patient at home on a daily basis. In higher concentrations performed
by physicians glycolic acid peels make an excellent facial rejuvenating
agent.
Antioxidant Creams
Vitamin C and E are two of the strongest antioxidants found in
the skin. They serve to neutralize free oxy radicals that are formed
under the influence of UV radiation. UVA can also generate free
oxy radicals, which are reactive oxygen bound molecules capable
of causing DNA and genetic material damage. Alterations to DNA genetic
material in skin cells is a precursor to cancer. In addition, these
free oxy radicals can also destroy elastic and collagen fibers resulting
in a premature aging process. Gradually, as the skin loses its elasticity
and texture, fine lines, wrinkles and sagging of the skin appear.
The use of topical antioxidants in the management of photo aging
can have a profound affect on decreasing the aging process. Vitamin
C is also necessary for the formation of collagen in the dermis
of the skin.
Individuals can integrate antioxidant treatment such as L-ascorbic
acid with the other treatment modalities i.e. glycolic acid and
Tretinoin (Renova). These agents do not have to be mutually exclusive,
and results may improve with the synergistic use of these modalities.
Individuals may initially complain of irritation, and if problematic
the frequency of use may be decreased. With increasing tolerance
to the L-ascorbic acid the frequency of use may be increased.
Moisturizers
Direct sunlight accelerates the evaporation of moisture from the
skin surface. Moisturizers serve to hydrate the skin by providing
an occlusive film that traps water on the surface of the skin. When
the skin is adequately hydrated, the tendency for fine lines to
appear is reduced.
